Odaiba Island by night with Rainbow Bridge in the background

On your 1 hour Tokyo Bay cruise “Symphony” you will see many beautiful spots in Tokyo,including Hinode Pier, the landmark Rainbow Bridge, the Tokyo Museum of Maritime Science, and Shinagawa Terminal.

After this the modern and funky Odaiba awaits! An artificial island built on land reclaimed from the sea, it was initially built for defensive purposes in the 1800s, dramatically expanded during the late 20th century as a seaport district, and has developed since the 1990s as a major commercial, residential and leisure area.

Tokyo governor Shunichi Suzuki began a major development plan in the early 1990s to redevelop Odaiba as Tokyo Teleport Town, a showcase for futuristic living, with new residential and commercial development housing a population of over 100,000.

Suzuki’s successor Yukio Aoshima halted the plan in 1995, by which point over JPY 1 trillion had been spent on the project, and Odaiba was still underpopulated and full of vacant lots. The collapse of the Japanese asset price bubble was a major factor, as it frustrated commercial development in Tokyo generally. The area was also viewed as inconvenient for business, as its physical connections to Tokyo—the Rainbow Bridge and the Yurikamome rapid transit line—made travel to and from central Tokyo relatively time-consuming.

The area started coming back to life in the late 1990s as a tourist and leisure zone, with several large hotels and shopping malls. Several large companies including Fuji Television moved their headquarters to the island, and transportation links improved with the connection of the Rinkai Line into the JR East railway network in 2002 and the eastward extension of the Yurikamome to Toyosu in 2006.

Today’s Odaiba is a popular shopping and sightseeing destination for Tokyoites and tourists alike. Some major attractions include the Fuji Television Studios,Decks Tokyo Beach shopping mall, Palette Town,Sega Joyopolis(a video game arcade) and The Miraikan Museum of Emerging Science.

Niigata & Murakami

Murakami Niigata Prefecture

NIIGATA

Also of note, Japan’s longest river the Shinano-gawa flows into the Sea of Japan from Niigata.

Niigata is known to the Japanese as the City of Water, as two rivers flow through it and it is of course situated on the Sea of Japan.

The city is also home to Hakusan-koen Park, Japan’s oldest public park which dates from the Meiji era. Located within the park is Hakusan-jinja Shrine,dedicated to traditional ceremonies.

MURAKAMI

A thriving castle town located to the north of Niigata City, Murakami is famed throughout Japan for its salmon, beef, and green tea (it’s the northernmost spot in Japan where tea is grown).

The city is also renowned for Senami Onsen, one of the oldest in the region, which offers beautiful views over the Sea of Japan at sunset.

Another famous spot in town is Wakabayashi House,  a samurai manor of a former Murakami feudal lord. A nationally designated important cultural property, this traditional Edo Period middle-class samurai house has many unique characteristics and is definitely worth a visit!

More on samurai and Murakami’s other speciality, sake:

 SAMURAI:

Japanese Samurai Warrior

Japan’s fearsome traditional warriors are in fact no more than servants!! Well…

The word samurai literally means “to serve”. Most samurai of past ages were servants of feudal lords, apart from the lordless “ronin” class who were anyway looked down upon as a  nuisance.

 Samurai were members of the warrior class, and as such were expected to be men of Zen-like mind who were prepared to give up their lives for their lord at a moment’s notice.

Samurai were supposed to lead their lives according to the ethic code of bushido (“the way of the warrior”). Strongly Confucian in nature, Bushido stressed concepts such as loyalty to one’s master, self discipline and respectful, ethical behavior.

After a defeat, some samurai chose to commit ritual suicide (known in the west as hara-kiri but usually called seppuku in Japan) by cutting their abdomen rather than being captured or dying a dishonorable death.

Samurai were at their strongest in the Heian Period (794-1185) and during the era of the Warring States (14^th and 15^th centuries) when the constant fighting meant there was a high demand for them. Many of Akira Kurosawa’s famous samurai movies (such as Rashomon) are set during this period.

The samurai class was officially abolished in 1868, when the feudal era came to an end and the Meiji Restoration began.

SAKE:

Japanese Sake rice wine

Sake is Japan’s most popular and world-famous rice wine.Distilled for centuries in the same traditional ways,it is widely used for religious ceremonies and festivals as well as of course being a popular tipple! An example of this is at New Years, when a special type of sake called toso is drunk. It is made by soaking tososan, a Chinese powder medicine, overnight in sake. Even children sip a portion. In some regions the first sipping of toso is taken in order of age from younger to older. This custom dates back to the ninth century,when it was introduced by Emperor Saga.

After fermentation, the product is heavily clouded with grain solids and is generally filtered. Generally, the product is not aged because consumers prefer the flavor of the fresh product, which degrades quickly in the presence of light, air, and heat. A few varieties of aged sake serve a niche market, however, and can be purchased for a reasonable price if one knows who and where to inquire!

There are two basic types of sake: futsū-shu ，“normal sake”; and tokutei meishōshu，“special designation sake”. Futsū-shu does not qualify for any levels of special designation. It is the equivalent of table wine and is over 75% of all sake produced. On the other hand, the tokutei meishōshu or “special designation sake” is distinguished by the degree to which the rice is polished and the added percentage of alcohol or absence of additives.

In Japan sake is served cold or warm depending on the preference of the drinker, the quality of the sake and the season. Sake is one of the few alcoholic beverages that is regularly consumed hot. Typically, hot sake is consumed in winter and cold sake is consumed in summer. As heating serves to mask the undesirable flavors of lower-quality sake, it is said that the practice became popular during World War II to mask the rough flavor of low-quality sake resulting from scarcity of quality ingredients.

Nikko、Tochigi Prefecture

Tosho-gu Temple,Nikko

Nikko is a small historic town in Japan’s Tochigi Prefecture (just north of Tokyo). The town is renowned for its wealth of World Heritage Site nominated traditional Japanese temples and shrines.

Other famous sites around the area include Taiyuin-byo (resting place of Iemitsu himself) , Rinno-ji (a temple owned by the Tendai sect of Buddhism and renowned for its 3 huge gilded images of the Buddha as well as its Treasure Hall which contains some 6000 treasures associated with the temple),  and Shinkyo, a famous and much photographed  red bridge that was once only open to the shogun but is now available to the public.

As a famous Japanese saying says, “don’t say ‘magnificent’ until you’ve seen Nikko”!!

Kyoto

This castle was built in 1603 as the official Kyoto residence of the feudal lord Tokugawa Ieyasu. The castle’s ornate and perhaps even somewhat overblown style was intended as a demonstration of Ieyasu’s prestige and power. As a safeguard against treachery, Ieyasu had the castle fitted out with “nightingale” floors and also concealed chambers where bodyguards could watch over him.

The castle is divided into five buildings with numerous chambers. A particularly beautiful one is the Fourth Chamber, which is full of spectacular Japanese screen paintings. Also worth a look is the Ninomaru Palace Garden, which was designed by the tea master and landscape architect Kobori Enshu.

Heian  Jingu Shrine

The Heian Jingū shrine was built in 1895 for the 1,100th anniversary of the establishment of Heiankyō (the old name of Kyoto). The shrine is dedicated to Emperor Kanmu and Emperor Kōmei. The former moved the capital to Heiankyō, and the latter was the last before Emperor Meiji, who moved the capital to Tokyo.

The torii (Japanese traditional red gate) before the main gate is one of the largest in Japan, and the main building, or shaden ,is designed to imitate the Kyoto Imperial Palace on a three-fourth scale.

The spacious Chinese-style garden,with many large ponds and bridges,is designed in the style that was popular in the Heian Period.

The Heian Jingū hosts the Jidai Matsuri, one of the three most important festivals of Kyoto. The procession of this festival begins at the old Imperial palace, and includes carrying the mikoshi (portable shrines) of Emperors Kanmu and Kōmei to the Heian Jingu.

Kiyomizu Temple

The Kiyomizu temple complex,founded in 798 by the Tendai sect of Buddhism is one of the oldest in Kyoto. The temple takes its name from the waterfall within the complex, which runs off the nearby hills. Kiyomizu means pure water, clear water or limpid water. It is notable for its vast veranda, supported by hundreds of pillars, that juts out over the hillside and offers impressive views of the city. The popular expression “to jump off the stage at Kiyomizu” is the Japanese equivalent of the English expression “to take the plunge”. This refers to an Edo period tradition that held that, if one were to survive jumping from the stage, one’s wish would be granted.

The temple complex contains several other shrines, notably Jishu-jinja, dedicated to Okuninushino-Mikoto, a god of love and “good matches”. Jishu-jinja possesses a pair of “love stones” placed 18 meters apart, which lonely visitors attempt to walk between with their eyes closed. Success in reaching the other stone, eyes closed, means that the pilgrim will find love. One can be assisted in the crossing, but this is taken to mean that an intermediary will be needed.

Emperor Meiji Memorial Shrine

Emperor Meiji Memorial Shrine,Shibuya

This shrine,located in the Yoyogi district of Shibuya,Tokyo, is dedicated to the Emperor Meiji and his consort, Empress Shoken. Emperor Meiji passed away in 1912 and Empress Shoken followed in 1914. After their demise, the  people wished to commemorate their life’s work and to venerate them forever. And so, their souls were enshrined in this monument,dedicated on November 1, 1920.
 

The shrine consists of two areas: Naien, (inner precinct)  with the shrine buildings at its centre, and Gaien (outer precinct), which includes the Meiji Memorial Picture Gallery, housing a collection of 80 large murals illustrative of the events in the lives of the Emperor and his consort, along with sports facilities,including the National Stadium. It also includes the Meiji Memorial Hall which was originally used for governmental meetings, including discussions surrounding the drafting of the Meiji Constitution in the late 19th century. Today it is used for Shinto weddings. These areas are covered by an evergreen forest of 120,000 trees of 365 different species, which were donated by people from all parts of Japan when the shrine was established. This 700,000 square-meter forest is visited by many people both as a spiritual home of the Japanese population and as a recreation and relaxation area in the heart of Tokyo.

The National Stadium is known as the center of Japanese sports, and is the home of the Tokyo Yakult Swallows baseball team.

The Tokyo Imperial Palace & its East Gardens

Nijubashi Bridge Tokyo Imperial Palace

Tokyo Imperial Palace (“kokyo” in Japanese) is the residence of the Emperor of Japan, Akihito, and his family. It is located in the Chiyoda area and is close to Tokyo Station. It is roughly the size of New York’s Central Park. During the height of the 1980s property boom, the palace was valued by some as more than the value of all the real estate in California！

Edo Castle, from which the Tokugawa shogunate ruled Japan, once occupied this location. The Imperial Family moved from Kyoto to take up residence in Tokyo in the 19th century. The palace built in 1888 was destroyed by Allied bombing during the Second World War, and the present complex was completed in 1968. Visitors from all over Japan enjoy posing for souvenir photographs against the backdrop of Nijubashi Bridge and the old guard tower. The bridge itself is open to the public on only two days each year: Jan 2 and Dec 23 (the Emperor’s birthday), when the Imperial Family makes an appearance on a palace balcony. The road beside the moat that circles the palace grounds is a popular jogging route.

Most of the palace is generally off limits to the public, with the exception of the East Garden. The East Garden is where most of the adminstrative buildings for the palace are located. Located on the grounds of the East Garden is the Imperial Tokagakudo Music Hall, the Music Department of the Board of Ceremonies of the Imperial Household, the Archives and Mausoleum Department, the Imperial Household Agency, structures for the guards such as the Saineikan dojo, and the Museum of the Imperial Collections. The Ninnomaru Garden is a Japanese garden with the Suwa no chaya teahouse.

Asakusa Shrine & Nakamise Shopping Street

Senso-ji Temple Asakusa

This is an ancient Buddhist temple located in Asakusa, Taitō, Tokyo. It is Tokyo’s oldest temple, and one of its most significant. Formerly associated with the Tendai sect, it became independent after World War II.

The temple is dedicated to the bodhisattva Kannon, also known as Guan Yin or the Goddess of Mercy. According to legend, a statue of the Kannon was found in the Sumida River in 628 by two fishermen, the brothers Hinokuma Hamanari and Hinokuma Takenari. The chief of their village, Hajino Nakamoto, recognized the sanctity of the statue and enshrined it by remodeling his own house into a small temple in Asakusa, so that the villagers could worship the Kannon. The first temple was built on the site in 645.

The blessings of the Kannon gradually received a high reputation throughout Japan, and people near and far flocked to Asakusa to venerate the statue.

During World War II, the temple was bombed and for the most part destroyed. It was rebuilt later and is a symbol of rebirth and peace to the Japanese people.

Many tourists, both Japanese and from abroad, visit Sensō-ji every year. Catering to the visiting crowds, the surrounding area has many traditional shops and eating places that feature traditional dishes (hand-made noodles, sushi, tempura, etc.). Nakamise-dori, the street leading from the Thunder Gate(a huge gate at the entrance to the temple featuring a huge painted dragon) to the temple itself, is lined with small shops selling souvenirs ranging from fans, ukiyo-e (woodblock prints), kimono and other robes, Buddhist scrolls, traditional sweets, to Godzilla toys, t-shirts, and cell-phone straps. These shops themselves are part of a living tradition of selling to pilgrims who walked to Sensō-ji.

Downtown Sendai

Matsushima

There are many famous sites in and around the city of Sendai. Amongst these are Aoba Castle (the stronghold of the Masamune clan), Tohoku University, the Miyagi Museum of Art, the Sendai Mediatheque (a state of the art library and multimedia centre),etc. all of which are within the city limits. Nearby Matsushima is a beautiful town by the sea, known in Japan as one of the Nihon Sankei or 3 Most beautiful sites of Japan, and also close to the city (a picturesque hour or so’s train ride from Sendai) is Yamadera, a complex of temples situated in a beautiful mountain walk. If you’re looking for a lovely view over the city, it can be found in the Sky Observatory, which is located on the 31st floor of the AER skyscraper building, which is located just a minute’s walk from JR Sendai Station and also houses offices, a blood donation clinic, a Starbuck’s, a large bookshop and a shopping mall which has many Tokyo department store Parco is currently under construction, it is expected famous fashion brands for sale. A branch of the famous to be opened by the end of August this year.

Sendai is a lovely place to be, with many attractions, a rich history and a relaxed pace of life which is rather nice when compared with the hectic pace of Tokyo! To quote a local saying:

“大きすぎんじゃなくて、小さいすぎんじゃなくて、べんりである、山も海も近くにある”

Or to translate: “It’s not too big and not too small, it’s convinient and it’s close to the sea and the mountains”!

It was my job to lead a small group of first timers around Japan. Having lived in Japan for a number of years I can master getting around without any major problems. I have huge respect (most of the time) for Japanese people, culture and society so this is a dream job for me. It was great fun and can’t wait for the next one!!

Rather than going through each day in detail, I’m going to give you a sample of what I felt were the highlights of the tour (quite a lot for me!). Although I had been to most of the places on this list before, no two times are ever the same! A different time, a different experience!!

1. Koyasan (Wakayama)
2. Nara (Todaiji Temple & Kasuga Shrine)
3. Osaka City
4. Views at Shirahama
5. Beppu Sand Baths & Hot Spring Hotel
6. Mt Aso
7. Hiroshima & Miyajima Island
8. Matsue Castle
9. Tottori Sand Dunnes
10. Kyoto – Tea Ceremony, Gion Walk, Shabu-Shabu

KOYASAN

We drove from Nara to Koyasan by chartered coach. The scenery along the way was magnificent. Most travelers will go by public train & cable car which is also a nice journey. I tried both modes of transport this time. Personally, I preferred the coach as I found the train and cable car very cold (temperature) but the scenery and experience was just as rewarding.

(WARNING: Temperatures cooler than the norm on Koyasan – bring an extra piece of clothing).

Greeted by a very friendly local tour guide, (organised by Japan Ireland Travel), Noriko, we were escorted to our first temple (of many) Kongobuji Temple. This important temple is the head quarters for Shingon-shu Buddhism, a sect of Buddhism, originated from this area. The temple itself was impressive and even nicer because at one stage, we had the whole place to ourselves.

What struck me most about Koyasan was the calm atmosphere and the down to earth people. No one looked like they got up to much which is a breath of fresh air in Japan. Most places are quite busy, particularly the cities. Noise stands out very clearly to us Irish! We are not used to the hussle and bustle of hopping on and off trains or worrying where the platform is for our next bullet train. This was all very new to the group, who I must say, got on extremely well and were a pleasure to travel around with.

History of Koyasan…..

Kobo Daisha (Kukai) entered priesthood at the age of 20. He moved to China in 804 at the age of 31. After 2 years studying Esoteric buddhism, he earned the title, along with seven others previous to this, of “Luminous Vajra Master”.

He returned to Japan with the intention of spreading Shingon Buddhism throughout. His desire and passion to teach impressed the reigning Emperor, who in 816, granted him land at Koyasan – where he set up the monastic complex known as Koyasan.

With its 117 temples, including Kongobuji HQ and Okunoin, Koyasan prospered as the great centre for Esoteric Buddhist practice in Japan. To this day it is still regarded as a mystic holy site.

• Aoba Festival - a festival celebrating the hirth of Kobo Daishi, takes place on June 15.
• Candle Festival – on the evening of August 13th approx/ 100,000 candles are placed on the path from Ichinohashi to Kukai’s Mausoleum (2km). This is a festival to pray for the souls of ancestors and those lying in Okunoin (famous graveyard). A truly magical ambiance.

More information on Koyasan click here.